When you say the phrase “bi-amped,” most newbie sound guys are in awe that you have such a system; they think bi-amping can cure the common cold, or at least all vestiges of bad sound and feedback. What I want to do in this column is introduce the bi-amping method, and show through example how you can do it correctly without a lot of information like speaker processor presets and driver response curves.
Looking at the flip side, using an existing speaker cabinet’s passive crossover network solves all your problems, as the system becomes one-amp, one speaker, plug-and-play kind of operation. For a majority of users, the compromises of a passive crossover network inside the cabinet are acceptable. These compromises are: loss of damping factor and efficiency due to passive component impedances, a blurring of fidelity at the crossover frequency point due to non-phase aligned high and low frequency (HF and LF) drivers, bumps in the frequency response due to a non-optimal crossover frequency point and to keeping the passive crossover component count low. And lastly, the imprecision of the HF driver efficiency matching and the necessary protection circuits, as low frequency amplifier clipping can produce harmonics that could damage the HF driver.
Bi-amping may solve most of these problems, but if not done correctly, it may do more harm than good. In the next section, I am going to use a basic example and extend it to bi-amping with an analog crossover. Then I’ll take it the next step by using a speaker processor.